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Inspecting a 3D part with Vision Probe

We have a Optiv 321 TP that we haven’t used in about 2 years. I took the vision course at Hex when be bought the unit. It was used in a cell to check 1 part. I used the tactile probe %100 because I couldn't get the vision probe to work. The part was a shiny cylinder on its side and I just couldn't get any good measurements. I’m determined the get it checking something. I’ve only been successful with using bottom light and the tp20 for measurements. No probe rack or rot table. I can only check a less than half the part which isn’t real useful.

I attached a drawing the circled the dimensions that I want to check. Can this be down with just the vision probe? I currently have the part with the wide base laying flat on the glass so I can see the large ID in the center of the part. It has a tight tolerance so I need to check and I have not tried to check the part on its side.

Please let me know what ya'll think.

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  • Alright, so i threw this together real quick...it's not comprehensive as you will need to find something to keep it from rolling the other way, maybe some sort of spring loaded plunger clamp from R&R or something similar if you don't have any R&R stuff.

    but basically, if you are able to use a clear gridplate then you can just the backlight to capture all the edges EXACTLY as you see them on your blue print. Your camera should be looking at the part perpendicular to the axis of the ID cylinder.

    Generally speaking your best focal point will be when the Z vlaue of the camera matches the center point of the ID.

    For example, if you manually focus on the top of the part (the OD), and you jog the machine down 1.6 inches you should be at the best focus point for all of the outside profile. From there you can measure lines and such to capture any dimensions you would need. The standoff between the focal point and the physical camera varies depending on your camera and zoom so just be cautious when you are jogging down so that you don't hit the part with the camera.

    I hope this helps.

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  • Alright, so i threw this together real quick...it's not comprehensive as you will need to find something to keep it from rolling the other way, maybe some sort of spring loaded plunger clamp from R&R or something similar if you don't have any R&R stuff.

    but basically, if you are able to use a clear gridplate then you can just the backlight to capture all the edges EXACTLY as you see them on your blue print. Your camera should be looking at the part perpendicular to the axis of the ID cylinder.

    Generally speaking your best focal point will be when the Z vlaue of the camera matches the center point of the ID.

    For example, if you manually focus on the top of the part (the OD), and you jog the machine down 1.6 inches you should be at the best focus point for all of the outside profile. From there you can measure lines and such to capture any dimensions you would need. The standoff between the focal point and the physical camera varies depending on your camera and zoom so just be cautious when you are jogging down so that you don't hit the part with the camera.

    I hope this helps.

    Attached Files
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