Try not to take your CMM's air from the lowest point in the line. Take the air above the lowest point preferably in a straight run down towards the floor. This will allow much of the water, oil and such to fall past your CMM air. You will how ever need to have a way to drain this lower section as just letting it fill up defeats the purpose. Running the line into a 5 gallon bucket with a lid will not only contain but also conceal the contaminates and allow you a means of removing them from the area. Just put a manually operated valve between the CMM air and the bucket "that you open to drain daily" and you will help improve your CMM's air quality.
Good one. This helps even if you have filters to make sure they last longer and don't get clogged up. It's cheap and easy.
Furthermore if I may say:
1. If your air bearing CMM has oil/water on it, it's life is limited. If it's an important machine to you, get someone to fix it right away or it WILL go down.
2. Oil and water filters and this tip are way cheaper than a rebuild/rehose.
3. The machines come with user manuals, read them, and follow the PM advice.
4. Yearly factory calibration is good for firmware updates, latest tuning procedures, and recommendations for machine maintenance, not just the calibration itself. It's healthy for your machine.
Good one. This helps even if you have filters to make sure they last longer and don't get clogged up. It's cheap and easy.
Furthermore if I may say:
1. If your air bearing CMM has oil/water on it, it's life is limited. If it's an important machine to you, get someone to fix it right away or it WILL go down.
2. Oil and water filters and this tip are way cheaper than a rebuild/rehose.
3. The machines come with user manuals, read them, and follow the PM advice.
4. Yearly factory calibration is good for firmware updates, latest tuning procedures, and recommendations for machine maintenance, not just the calibration itself. It's healthy for your machine.
