I know. I haven't looked them up but now I'm thinking to get the license and build one. We have all the machines here to build them and im sure the dimensions aren't hard to figure out. I will definitely message you for some input if I do end up building one.
Do you know approx. cost of the license?
Cool idea but I think it needs some more refinement.
The $4000 one is going to be a lot more forgiving WHEN it gets bumped out of position. The vertical shaft on it will rock back and disengage and the probe holder assembly will tilt down. Beats replacing a $25K probe head.
kingsld1 I'm not to concern, Its not going 90 mph into the tool changer. I take it slow in and out. the head collapse and errors out on very minute things
I made this one on the right over a year ago, haven't had one issue.
WolfMan I don't have the exact numbers, but calibrating it gets me close. Then I just creep it in and adjust each slot individually, so it makes a nice smooth entry. You can edit each slot in any direction
Kirb, so its not just my tesa head that errors out if u breathe on it wrong? Mine will error out just by manually swapping a tp-20 if you aren't careful.
KIRBSTER, this is what I made to hold the qualification artifact. We calibrate at the beginning of every program so the operators were taking in and out of the box it came in and I didn't want them to drop it so I made this box to hold the sphere and I taped it to the granite plate right next to the plate. I also took one of the smaller pillars and machined threads to the top to accept the qualification sphere. Now the qualification sphere has 1/4-20 threads that screw right into the center hole on the plate.
This is why I am so interested in the probe rack because I know I can make one and it would help with breaking probes. We have a lot of broken probes from when the operator switches from one styli to another.
Very nice, I think the hardest part about making the rack is the placement of the magnets. You want to place them at the right place so it doesn't pull the probe forward or backward once it drops it off. Once I get everything all squared up. I drop off a probe, stop the machine and mark off where the magnet should be. Only because I use round magnets, and I drill a hole through 3 slots, flip it and do the other three slots, and just press the magnets in. The block is made out of aluminum, so its not magnetic. You can probably use magnet strips, just widen the top part a little more. The ones made by Hexagon or Renishaw or whoever, there is slop in there. So it don't have to be tight. Although mine are a tighter fit.