cribbage players

I do not play Cribbage, but I could one day be coerced to relax and have a drink and play some with my family or friends. I do have a question though if you do not mind related to woodworking.

Do you know of any reputable forums that commission custom woodworking projects? Small scale, nothing big. Like a new wooden case for a pair of 8" or 12" Mitutoyo calipers so I can toss the cheap plastic ones.

I do not know of anything like that.

I do not do that kind of woodworking either.  multiple pieces, glued together and so forth.

I could make something out of 1x12 (3/4"x11 1/4") wood.  I don't have any planners or drum sanders.

It would be a solid base, with the shape cut out, with a hinge holding a second piece on top.

might not be perfectly flat (no planner) but would be pretty close.

I pretty much use 1x12 poplar and red oak as there is a semi-local lumber yard that has 'prime' 1x12 in those 2 species all the time

just a quick, slapped together sample using a 6" dial caliper with the calipers open 1 inch.  you can see offsets for mounting hinges.

which machine are you using... that is pretty neat. 

(link in first post)

It's the NextWave Shark 520

made these over the weekend.

Dude sick, that is so detailed and precise. I have never used that type of machine before, do you like import a CAD and it knows what to do? Or is there a lot of steps involved for prep?

well, 'cad' is a loose term.  I have the 2.5D version of the software (I can make any 2D, but not 3D, but can use pre-made 3D files).  I can import STL files (the rifle was an STL file).  IGES, nope, STEP, nope.  So it is limited in it's import abilities.  There are tons of files (free and $$$) out there, the rifle was a free one.  Then, you position the cad where you want it in the piece, then, it is pretty simple, open the tool path menu, and in this case, select ROUGH, select the tool (1/4" ball nose) and calculate.  Then select FINISH, select the tool (1/32" 22.5 degree taper ballnose) and calculate.  I then did a simple profile (rectangle around the model) and set the depth to cut it out (1/4" end mill).  Once the calculations are done (goes REAL quick), save to a USB stick, put the stick in the machine, and cut.  I have spoil boards on the machine so I can cut through the wood without hitting the table.  I have 1/4" dowel holes along both the -X side and +X side of the table to push wood against as well as -Y, all to fixture the raw wood (no pickup needed!).  Then simply touch off on the surface of the wood and cycle the program for that cutter.  Some of the default settings for the cutters in the tool database are 'wimpy' IMO.  I mean, they want a 1/4" ballnose to only cut at 36"/min and 0.06" depth.  Yeah, wimpy.  I go .125" deep at 80"/min.  19,000 RPM, yeah, that setting was good.  And for the roughing pass, 0.02" stepover.  Also, too wimpy, it's a rough pass, I go .1", leaving a scallop of 0.010", good enough for roughing (and 0.020" stock on)

Nice to see you are supporting the South Paw Shooters out there with your left-handed bolt action!

Also, SolidWorks is super cheap for the private license and might help with the file translations.

ya gotta remember, I'm freaking old, my 'old dog new tricks' was used up in learning the software to program the machine!  Still learning it in many ways even after 17 months of use.

Never even thought of any of those poor misguided lefties out there, I simply mirrored the file to get a gun pointing left and one pointing right, like bookends.