cribbage players

I enjoy playing cribbage!

it is a fun game, perfect for long cold winters and nights at deer camp!

Exactly. What kind of wood do you use? Maple? A Minnesota or Finland cribbage board would be cool.

most of what I've done has been either red oak or poplar.  couple reasons for that

they are available in 1x12 (0.75 x 11.25) all planned and sanded (80 grit) and pretty much always available.  other species are hit-and-miss on availability for wide pieces.

they are the cheapest (except for pine) so if I screw it up, it mostly costs just my time.  They run about $7.50/foot so not too bad, northern white pine is around $3.50/foot.

my 2nd shift guy scanned his pistol grips to have me cut replacements out of bubinga.  I tried, but I won't mill bubinga ever again.  it is gummy and it actually sucked the bit out of the holder (and I know how to tighten the holder!), they didn't come out at all.  then he got me a chunk of cherry, that worked pretty good.

I've done some stuff out of glued up poplar to get bigger pieces, but I don't do the glueups, I get them from the same place I get the dimensional stuff.

I don't think I would like trying to make something out of an expensive piece of wood just to screw it up.  but, every project is a learning experience (except for cribbage boards, those are see-spot, see-spot-run for me) and I've only been doing this just over a year in my spare time but over the last 30+ years I've designed about 200 cribbage boards.  I have a Michigan board (with all the counties, see image above) designed but not yet cut, the tracks go around outside the profile of the state.  I did cut a USA board over the weekend out of some glued-up poplar, instead of 10"x15.5 it is 12.75"x19.75".  might not seem like a big difference, but it really is.

most of what I've done has been either red oak or poplar.  couple reasons for that

they are available in 1x12 (0.75 x 11.25) all planned and sanded (80 grit) and pretty much always available.  other species are hit-and-miss on availability for wide pieces.

they are the cheapest (except for pine) so if I screw it up, it mostly costs just my time.  They run about $7.50/foot so not too bad, northern white pine is around $3.50/foot.

my 2nd shift guy scanned his pistol grips to have me cut replacements out of bubinga.  I tried, but I won't mill bubinga ever again.  it is gummy and it actually sucked the bit out of the holder (and I know how to tighten the holder!), they didn't come out at all.  then he got me a chunk of cherry, that worked pretty good.

I've done some stuff out of glued up poplar to get bigger pieces, but I don't do the glueups, I get them from the same place I get the dimensional stuff.

I don't think I would like trying to make something out of an expensive piece of wood just to screw it up.  but, every project is a learning experience (except for cribbage boards, those are see-spot, see-spot-run for me) and I've only been doing this just over a year in my spare time but over the last 30+ years I've designed about 200 cribbage boards.  I have a Michigan board (with all the counties, see image above) designed but not yet cut, the tracks go around outside the profile of the state.  I did cut a USA board over the weekend out of some glued-up poplar, instead of 10"x15.5 it is 12.75"x19.75".  might not seem like a big difference, but it really is.

Interesting so you must then machine the lettering vs laser marking? I have seen some of the state boards people have made online and its nice to look at when you see many of the different cities.

I laser them for the most part.  it eliminates the 'nasty' that you can get if the wood has any warp in it.  the laser has some forgiveness for the Z axis, the tool bits, nope.  0.020" of bow/warp really shows up when using a V-bit.  all the pix above were done with the laser, either single lines or a cross-hatch pattern.

here is one I made yesterday.  1/4" holes (not the normal 1/8" holes) for bigger pegs.  board is 11.25" x 18.75".  there are a couple .22lr rounds in holes, I'm thinking some of the bigger rifle rounds will fit for pegs, but I don't have any .22-250 since I couldn't hunt with that round where I hunted.  .22mags would fit good as well and give a bit more to grip.  not stained, $40.  has about 0.1" of bow, made out of northern white pine.

I'd buy it

shipping can kind of suck since I don't have a business account with any shippers.  USPS Ground Advantage is the 'best' deal, but it is damn hard to figure out the cost on their web site.  'size' and 'weight' and 'bigger' and 'more' etc.  they suck for clear direction IMO.

Flat rate boxes! 


Also maybe some items for the special inspector in your lives. 

all too small for that board, it is almost 19" long!

They come bigger, just cost more 

there in lies the problem!  shipping sucks!

Over the weekend I purchased a big 'set' of 3D dog heads along with plaques you can combine them with.  Heads average about 6" in the biggest XY direction.  I scaled them down to 2" in the biggest and nested them inside a 2.8" shallow dome and am working on cutting them out as display samples.  16 heads to a 12"x12" piece of wood.  54 heads to cut, so there will be 3 full boards of 16 heads and a 4th with the last 6 heads and a full scale head as well to show the fine details.  here is the 1st panel of 16 heads (still part of a long board and still clamped on the machine):