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cribbage players

Any cribbage players on this site?  Just over a year ago I bought a CNC router mill for my upcoming retirement (to keep busy & hopefully make a little cash)

I have about 200 cribbage boards I have designed over the years and now I can make them much nicer and much more easily than hand drilling 240-480 holes

Since I have had the machine I have also designed up (and made) quite a few other things.  I really like the 3D 'carving' capabilities of this thing.

this is the machine I bought, along with a 3hp spindle, and a few of the other accessories.

nextwavecnc.com/.../

Parents
  • it is a fun game, perfect for long cold winters and nights at deer camp!

  • Exactly. What kind of wood do you use? Maple? A Minnesota or Finland cribbage board would be cool.

  • most of what I've done has been either red oak or poplar.  couple reasons for that

    they are available in 1x12 (0.75 x 11.25) all planned and sanded (80 grit) and pretty much always available.  other species are hit-and-miss on availability for wide pieces.

    they are the cheapest (except for pine) so if I screw it up, it mostly costs just my time.  They run about $7.50/foot so not too bad, northern white pine is around $3.50/foot.

    my 2nd shift guy scanned his pistol grips to have me cut replacements out of bubinga.  I tried, but I won't mill bubinga ever again.  it is gummy and it actually sucked the bit out of the holder (and I know how to tighten the holder!), they didn't come out at all.  then he got me a chunk of cherry, that worked pretty good.

    I've done some stuff out of glued up poplar to get bigger pieces, but I don't do the glueups, I get them from the same place I get the dimensional stuff.

    I don't think I would like trying to make something out of an expensive piece of wood just to screw it up.  but, every project is a learning experience (except for cribbage boards, those are see-spot, see-spot-run for me) and I've only been doing this just over a year in my spare time but over the last 30+ years I've designed about 200 cribbage boards.  I have a Michigan board (with all the counties, see image above) designed but not yet cut, the tracks go around outside the profile of the state.  I did cut a USA board over the weekend out of some glued-up poplar, instead of 10"x15.5 it is 12.75"x19.75".  might not seem like a big difference, but it really is.

  • Interesting so you must then machine the lettering vs laser marking? I have seen some of the state boards people have made online and its nice to look at when you see many of the different cities.

  • I laser them for the most part.  it eliminates the 'nasty' that you can get if the wood has any warp in it.  the laser has some forgiveness for the Z axis, the tool bits, nope.  0.020" of bow/warp really shows up when using a V-bit.  all the pix above were done with the laser, either single lines or a cross-hatch pattern.

  • here is one I made yesterday.  1/4" holes (not the normal 1/8" holes) for bigger pegs.  board is 11.25" x 18.75".  there are a couple .22lr rounds in holes, I'm thinking some of the bigger rifle rounds will fit for pegs, but I don't have any .22-250 since I couldn't hunt with that round where I hunted.  .22mags would fit good as well and give a bit more to grip.  not stained, $40.  has about 0.1" of bow, made out of northern white pine.

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